Boomerang Sprint

Starting a new build or conversion? Post your information, findings and pictures here.

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Simon Burch
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:09 pm

Boomerang Sprint

Postby Simon Burch » Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:04 pm

Not the most exciting, but I'm starting my Boomerang build from scratch. Not a new airframe, but not had much use. Didn't like the way a few things had been done, so everything is now out.

I've got a gas start Wren 80 to go in, plus a power box Gemini 2. Just trying to get my head around where everything is going to fit. Don't suppose anyone is running a similar turbine that could show me a picture of the basic layout. Had a bit of a google around, but nothing has shown clearly what is going on. Just trying to avoid doing it twice, or turning up at a jet meet and finding out that I've not followed the correct methods.

Seems a lot to get on the main plate, my first thought was to cut out a new one to make the most of the space left around the sides?

Cheers,
Simon

Dave Wilshere
Posts: 545
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:25 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Dave Wilshere » Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:14 pm

Simon

We would need a pic of the existing plate to comment, but you will need weight at the front, so heavy stuff forward, light stuff back. Keep the fuel lines from the hopper to the pump short. Use 4mm i/d tube from the tank to hopper. Keep the over flow line from the main tank as short as possible and again use 4mm i/d tube

Dave

Simon Burch
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:09 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Simon Burch » Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:56 am

Dave,

Thanks for the quick response.

Image

This is the only pic I've got so far. Got the lipo's up near the front and the ECU battery right up in the nose (ignore the pump, it's just sitting there).

The pipe sizes are a little confusing, people seem to do different things. Don't know if it shows in the picture, but there is a lot of space around the tray which is wasted, so my first thought was to make a plate to maximise the space.

I read that the ECU needs to be away from the rx, or is that the pump?

All good fun, I'm sure it will all become obvious once it's in place.

Cheers,

Simon

Simon Burch
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:09 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Simon Burch » Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:45 pm

This is the current tank set up which I've taken out because it stinks the house out.

Image

First thing, I didn't think you were supposed to use Festo fittings with Tygon tubing, so should the feed from the tank to the hopper be 6mm clear pipe (name escapes me at the moment). The feed to my Wren pump looks to be 4mm, so if I buy some more, is there any issue just replacing the 4mm part which you can see has been capped off from the hopper (not sure if that barbed connector is anything to worry about?)

Don't like the look of the fitting in the tank lid, I can't see any sealing washers around this, but I'm guessing this is what comes with that tank?

Sorry for all the questions, but should I have a filter and a shut off valve somewhere, if so where? My Boomerang Intro doesn't have a shut off valve, but I've read that its not a bad idea to have one. As this is a new install for me, I'd like to get it 100%.

Lots of questions and I'm sure I'm over thinking the whole process.

Cheers,
Simon

seanburchfield
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:52 am

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby seanburchfield » Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:08 pm

Here's a sprint layout that i did a few years ago. I was running a P80se, the 3 lipo's up front were 1850's.

Hope the picture helps

Sean
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seanburchfield
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:52 am

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby seanburchfield » Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:09 pm

Another picture
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Simon Burch
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:09 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Simon Burch » Wed Feb 12, 2014 11:57 am

Cheers mate, thats very helpful. Nearly got the damage repaired to the wing, so starting my install next week.

Dave Wilshere
Posts: 545
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:25 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Dave Wilshere » Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:15 pm

Simon Burch wrote:This is the current tank set up which I've taken out because it stinks the house out.

Image

First thing, I didn't think you were supposed to use Festo fittings with Tygon tubing, so should the feed from the tank to the hopper be 6mm clear pipe (name escapes me at the moment). The feed to my Wren pump looks to be 4mm, so if I buy some more, is there any issue just replacing the 4mm part which you can see has been capped off from the hopper (not sure if that barbed connector is anything to worry about?)

Don't like the look of the fitting in the tank lid, I can't see any sealing washers around this, but I'm guessing this is what comes with that tank?

Sorry for all the questions, but should I have a filter and a shut off valve somewhere, if so where? My Boomerang Intro doesn't have a shut off valve, but I've read that its not a bad idea to have one. As this is a new install for me, I'd like to get it 100%.

Lots of questions and I'm sure I'm over thinking the whole process.

Cheers,
Simon


Simon

You are right, Tygon and Festo quick connects should not be accepted. Use Barbed connectors unless you are using the 6mm and 4mm clear tube. I guess the tygon we shipped you today was for tank plumbing, the tank you show with 4mm Od tube is not good for an overflow-its only 2.5mm i/d. use the Tygon for the clunk line and overflow. You can use tygon from the main tank to the UAT too. Feed out of the UAT can either be tygon with a barbed step down, or 6mm-4mm clear using a festo 6-4 quick connect. Can't remember what we sent you in the earlier order, but we can sort anything with the filler valve order

Best Regards

Dave

Dave Wilshere
Posts: 545
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:25 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Dave Wilshere » Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:16 pm

Simon Burch wrote:This is the current tank set up which I've taken out because it stinks the house out.

Image

First thing, I didn't think you were supposed to use Festo fittings with Tygon tubing, so should the feed from the tank to the hopper be 6mm clear pipe (name escapes me at the moment). The feed to my Wren pump looks to be 4mm, so if I buy some more, is there any issue just replacing the 4mm part which you can see has been capped off from the hopper (not sure if that barbed connector is anything to worry about?)

Don't like the look of the fitting in the tank lid, I can't see any sealing washers around this, but I'm guessing this is what comes with that tank?

Sorry for all the questions, but should I have a filter and a shut off valve somewhere, if so where? My Boomerang Intro doesn't have a shut off valve, but I've read that its not a bad idea to have one. As this is a new install for me, I'd like to get it 100%.

Lots of questions and I'm sure I'm over thinking the whole process.

Cheers,
Simon


Simon

You are right, Tygon and Festo quick connects should not be accepted. Use Barbed connectors unless you are using the 6mm and 4mm clear tube. I guess the tygon we shipped you today was for tank plumbing, the tank you show with 4mm Od tube is not good for an overflow-its only 2.5mm i/d. use the Tygon for the clunk line and overflow. You can use tygon from the main tank to the UAT too. Feed out of the UAT can either be tygon with a barbed step down, or 6mm-4mm clear using a festo 6-4 quick connect. Can't remember what we sent you in the earlier order, but we can sort anything with the filler valve order

Best Regards

Dave

Dave Wilshere
Posts: 545
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:25 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Dave Wilshere » Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:16 pm

Simon Burch wrote:This is the current tank set up which I've taken out because it stinks the house out.

Image

First thing, I didn't think you were supposed to use Festo fittings with Tygon tubing, so should the feed from the tank to the hopper be 6mm clear pipe (name escapes me at the moment). The feed to my Wren pump looks to be 4mm, so if I buy some more, is there any issue just replacing the 4mm part which you can see has been capped off from the hopper (not sure if that barbed connector is anything to worry about?)

Don't like the look of the fitting in the tank lid, I can't see any sealing washers around this, but I'm guessing this is what comes with that tank?

Sorry for all the questions, but should I have a filter and a shut off valve somewhere, if so where? My Boomerang Intro doesn't have a shut off valve, but I've read that its not a bad idea to have one. As this is a new install for me, I'd like to get it 100%.

Lots of questions and I'm sure I'm over thinking the whole process.

Cheers,
Simon


Simon

You are right, Tygon and Festo quick connects should not be accepted. Use Barbed connectors unless you are using the 6mm and 4mm clear tube. I guess the tygon we shipped you today was for tank plumbing, the tank you show with 4mm Od tube is not good for an overflow-its only 2.5mm i/d. use the Tygon for the clunk line and overflow. You can use tygon from the main tank to the UAT too. Feed out of the UAT can either be tygon with a barbed step down, or 6mm-4mm clear using a festo 6-4 quick connect. Can't remember what we sent you in the earlier order, but we can sort anything with the filler valve order

Best Regards

Dave

Simon Burch
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:09 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Simon Burch » Sat Mar 08, 2014 7:06 pm

Pretty much done.

Image

If you see the patch lead inputs to the Gemini, could someone please advise how they are supposed to be plugged in, because I can't find any instructions regarding this. I've only plugged them in, I've not yet powered it up.

Cheers,
Simon

Simon Burch
Posts: 28
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:09 pm

Re: Boomerang Sprint

Postby Simon Burch » Sat Mar 08, 2014 7:07 pm

Oh, both Dave and Colin, thnaks for the advice given. Learnt a lot about installation over the past few weeks. I'm quite please with the way it has turned out.

Cheers,
Simon


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